Street Trends and the Runway

The French Revolution marked the first significant point in history when fashion and trends were no longer dictated by the ruling classes, but by the ruled - the people on the street. Perhaps we have the historically recorded over-exuberance of the Queen of France - Marie Antoinette - and her regime to thank for the birth and continued existence of Street Trends. They most often tend to arise in response to a particular subculture’s distaste for the current social standards, and a rebellion against the norm, or the ways of the older generation. As we will see, some members of street trends clash with other of its contemporaries, and in one particular case, it is the street trend, itself that is the focus of discontent among other subcultures, and eventually, mainstream.



Zoot Suit

Edward James Olmos for the movie, “Zoot Suit,” 1981

The Zoot Suit: high waist, baggy pant leg, tight around the cuff, paired with a long, wide-lapelled, wide padded shoulder, over coat. An addition to the zoot suit street trend is a felt hat and pointy dress shoes. This trend began during the late 1930s and 1940s, among non-white American males. There are a few different credits as to where the trend originated, but a general consensus is the 1930s Harlem Jazz scene, among African American males. The zoot suit was also popular on the west coast, particularly with Mexican-American youths living in Los Angeles. Most of us have heard of the Zoot Suit Riots, whether we know the actual details or not. During this trend, when American was in the middle of WWII, there was also a great conservation of fabric. Because the draped zoot suit cut involved much more fabric than a standard style suit, it was considered extravagant and unpatriotic during those times. The riots occurred in Los Angeles, when sailors chased and attacked Mexican-American zoot suit wearers, as either an act of racism, their notion of patriotism, or a combination of the two. The zoot suit appeared again in the 1970s, with the Edward James Olmos play of the same title, which was later made into a film in 1981.
Over a decade later, the style experienced another revival with the swing culture of the mid 1990s, made popular by big band style swing groups such as Big Bad VooDoo daddies, and the movie, Swingers.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Emanuel Ungaro, Milan/Paris, Fall-Winter 2008

The Ungaro design seen here borrows the hat, jacket, and pants from the Zoot Suit, more sophisticated, tailored way, through its taporing and choices in fabric.


Runway counterpart 2
Designer: John Galliano, Paris, 2001

This design proves that men are not the only ones who can wear the zoot suit. Livelier colors than its males counterpart, for certain, this design also features a slim, tailored fit about the torso, yet stays true to the essence of the zoot suit.



Teddy Boys

North East Rock & Roll Society, 1973 England

Barnaby and Callan, Models, Date Unknown
I was very interested to learn the origin of the term, Teddy Boys. The name comes from the fact that young, well-to-do youths – specifically teenagers - adapted their own street style from the current fashion of those times – the Edwardian style of the late 1940s. The relation to the Edwardian style was shortened to Teddy, and a new style was born. The style spread amongst youth in London, as a result to their disillusionment with the current trends and life style of rock and roll. The Teddy Boy trend invited youths to dress fashionably on a daily basis, as opposed to dressing up only for special occasions. Known as a rebel group who flaunted their style and pompous attitudes, and were involved in riots and gang battles. The group saw a revival in the 1970’s and were most noted then for their clash and malice towards the Punk sub-culture. The latest revival of the Teddy Boys occurred in 1990s London, who called themselves The Edwardian Drape Society (T.E.D.S.).


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Matthias Lauridsen, Fall 2005

Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Ian Jones, Fall 2005

Both of these designs reflect the Teddy Boy style quite succinctly. It is as if each designer meant them as a specific revival to the trend. The lines, tailoring, and sophisticated lines all point to the fashion values of the original Boys.

Beatniks

Beatnik, US, circa 1959, photographer unlisted
Beatnik, Don Stevens and author, Jack Kerouac, circa 1959, photographer unlisted

Perhaps the name that embodies the Beatnik culture the most is author, Jack Kerouac. It was his underground group, after all that coined the term. Beat, Beat Generation: to Kerouac and those belonging to his social circle, their definition of the word ranged from beat down, the underground culture, or Kerouac’s more spiritual slant for which “[he] claimed that he had identified (and embodied) a new trend analogous to the influential Lost Generation (a term to describe “a group of American literary notables” such as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald, during the World War II era. The actual term, “beatnik” was coined after the lauch of Russia’s Sputnik, so it is a conglomeration of the beat generation and the political, social climate or their time. The beatniks represented a new manner of thinking among poets and authors, and phrases like, “cool cats (also a Looney Tunes character),” is often associated with them. Illustrationsof beatniks often included black berets, black turtleneck sweaters, and dark glasses, toppoed off with a goatee. The beat culture extended beyond poetry and books into music, and during 1950s and early 1960s, influenced such greats as Bob Dylan, The Beatles, and Pink Floyd. Additionally, the culture reached into the world of movies, television, and animation – I always knew there was something interesting about Shaggy on Scooby Doo, now I know he was a beatnik.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Marc by Marc Jacobs, New York Fashion Week
Fall-Winter 2008

The beatnik look is easily identifiable in these designs, with the black stockings, the 1960s style dress silhouette (which could double as a take on the Mod street trend), the beret and black sunglasses. A classically designed nod to the original street trend.


Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Emporio Armani, Milan Fashion Week Fall 2008

This design is not as all-inclusive as the Marc Jacobs examples, and represent more of the beatnik essence in general, as opposed to an adaptation.

Mods

Early 1060’s Britain, photographer unlisted

When I think of mod, I think first of early 1960s Beatles and the British invasion, and bands like the Kinks and the eternal Rolling Stones were musical favorites of the group, with their rhythm and blues style. Also, when I think of mod, I cannot help but to conjure the image of Austin Powers – the Mod, himself. The Mod or, “Modernist” subculture is another trend that developed on the streets of London. The term, modernist, has no association with the art movement, Modernism, but it refers to the modern jazz music popular with the subculture, in addition to blues, ska, soul, and R&B music. Its official period lasted from the late 1950s to the mid 1960s, but like many other trends, it experienced its own periods of revival, first in the 1970s and again in the 1980s. A mainstay of the mod subculture, often seen driving about in their Italian-made Vespas, is their defiance to commercialism, and their desire to stay ahead of the trend. Once jazz music gained mainstream popularity in the 1960s, the mods moved on to blues music, and once that caught on as a fad, they again, moved on to adopt another taste of music. Undoubtedly, there is still a subculture today that refers to themselves as mods, who uphold many of the same standards as their modernist fore-fathers.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Diane von Furstenberg, Spring-Summer 2007

The silhouette of this baby doll dress relates very easily to the modernist style of female dress. The brighter color relates to the mod culture, upon its integration with mainstream.

Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. Collection, New York, Spring 2008

Gwen Stefani hit a home run with these Mod subculture, inspired designs. Everything from the dresses to the boots, hair and makeup all sing with that classic mod style of dress and desire to uphold the truest of trendsetting fashion. Groovy.

Hippies

Hippies, photograph info unavailable

Flower Hippy, Evening Standard/Getty Images, circa 1969

Jimi Hendrix, circa 1969

Hippies: Peace & Love, Free Love, psychedelic hippies, flower children & flower power; Mamas and the Papas hippies, acid rock hippies – these are the first terms that come to my mind when I think about this subculture. As is with many street trends, this subculture was also born out of youth rebellion from its government and socio-political conditions, and the conservative values of their parents and the older generations. This was the group that made the blue jean mainstream, so I have them to thank for the stacks of them in my closet. This hippie generation is very unique, in that it represents the first generation in which its children – my generation – love its music and know it as much as they do. In fact, hearing my mother in law recall her San Francisco hippie days at Janis Joplin concerts, my uncle recalling his experiences at Jimi Hendrix concerts, and all the tales of my father & mother in law’s life in hippy communes, is very fascinating to me. It represents the wildest, freest times that the youth in this country have ever experienced. This is the generation that coined, “Make Love, Not War,” and it represents the starting point of a new generation, one that leans more and more towards racial equality. Without the hippies, where would this country be? On the downside, it seems to me that the hippies of the 1960s and 1970s are all retired now from their quest for peace & love. Or more succinctly, not retired, but simply – tired. I would be too, after a decade of what they endured.

Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Gucci, Rome, pre-Spring Fashion Show 2009

The combination of the easy draping and the pattern motif makes this design an obvious nod to hippie fashion. This design has a definite feminine, yet bohemian feel.

Runway counterpart 2
Designers: Matthew Williamson (far left), Diane von Furstenberg (center), Anna Sui (right), New York Fashion Week Spring 2009

These designs by three different designers, are labeled as “Rich Hippie.” This is the perfect title for them, in their accentuation with the hippie vibe, relatable more to a socialite than a bohemian-style female.



Disco

Stylist: Fabiola, photograph by Digital Imaging, 2008

On the heels of the hippies, was the disco era, and the street trend to match. It originated in African American and Hispanic communites, and was popularized by bands and artists of the period, like The Jackson Five, Donna Summer, and the Bee Gees. Even though I have never seen it by choice, I feel safe to say that John Travolta’s Saturday Night Fever could be considered a visual guidebook as to what the subculture represented. The disco street trend is as much about the style of dress as it is the music – the two are synonymous, and dance is their child. Perhaps this is the first era in which the music represented just as much of the street trend as the actual fashion did. But perhaps this trend was all about the two, and was not a youth rebellion like other street trends. This seemed to be more just about a way of social life, not reliant on any political point of views. In fact any social rebellion was on the part of anti-disco, rock fans, tired of the over-flooding of disco in mainstream and the radio waves. Ironically, the post-disco era of music, which dropped the definable, orchestra-accompanied production, proved to be much more memorable after almost 30 years. So, songs like, Thriller, I’m So Excited, It’s Raining Men, Celebration, Super Freak, and 1999 all have disco to thank for their endurance and continued usage in weddings, corporate events, presidential campaigns & inaugurations, and movie soundtracks alike.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: David Alexander, LA Fashion Week 2009

This draped pantsuit design oozes with disco flavor. The draped, flowing, shimmering fabric accentuated with the fuzzy, [hopefully] faux-fur scarf, makes her ready for any disco dance floor.

Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Tommy Hilfiger, New York Fashion Week Fall 2008

This is not so much “stage disco,” but still carries the essence of the trend with the soft, velvety fabric, tailored into the low-cut neck pantsuit design, fit for any disco diva of the time.



Punk

British Fashion League, photograph information not listed

UK, Getty Images, 2008

Just like oil and water, you have the punk subculture, and the 1970s revival of the Teddy Boys. Punk is another street trend in which the style of dress and the punk rock music are synonymous. It originated in the mid 1979s in the US, UK, and Australia based on anti-establishment, and anti current, mainstream rock music. In the case of punk, it began as a new wave of music, and developed into a subculture and street trend by the new music genre’s followers. When considering punk as a street trend, I often think of spiky hair, sometimes shaved into a mohawk, metal-studded belts, Doc Martens, safety-pins adorned on clothing, and t-shirts. Multiple piercings and tattoos top off the style. The look has shifted over its time and as a result of different styles of punk emerging. It – as a music genre and street trend - endures 30 years later, and its life is strung with bands and musicians like Iggy Pop, Sex Pistols, The Ramones, Social Distortion (Social D), Green Day, The Hives, and Good Charlotte.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier, Fall-Winter 2007

The funky hair piece and flashy jacket combination make for a great example to punk adapted to runway. This is definitely punk gone high fashion.

Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Ana Sui, Spring 2008

With the model’s mannequin-like poise, I cannot help but to connect her with the Misfits, an animated all-girl, rivals of Gem band of the 1980s. With that said, this design is truly, truly, truly - punk outrageous.

Hip Hop

Hip Hop Artist, 50 Cent

Photograph info not provided

The origins of hip hop can be lined up with those of punk, both in late 1970s New York. The two subcultures borrowed trends from each other, and it was not uncommon for musical artists (such as the Beastie Boys) to be considered as crossovers between the two genres. Hip hop, specifically, was a subculture centered around African American and Latino American youths in New York. Breakdancing, beat boxing, rapping, DJs (disc jockeys, rhythmically spinning records for beat on turntables) and MCs (Master of Ceremony) are all part of the hip hop genre, as well as a new form of expression, graffiti – which was either for artistic or power-oriented. Pioneers of hip hop music are Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five, and The Sugarhill Gang, the former of which coined the term, hip hop, as a reference to military cadence, and mocking a friend of his who joined the military. The term was picked up by various artists, and soon became the subculture phenomenon that it is today. Other pioneers of Hip Hop include, Run DMC, Doug E. Fresh, and Fat Boys. The hip hop style of dress has changed over the years, and the urban-originated style is now so imbedded in mainstream that it is indiscernible from the authentic hip hop culture. In fact, hip hop is now a global phenomenon, and has a place in many cultures throughout the world.


Runway counterpart 1
Designer: DSquared2, Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2009

Both of these DSquared2 designs introduce a nerdy chic to the hip hop fashion. An interesting point to make is that these crafty designs also show just how imbedded in mainstream the hip hop lifestyle has become, to the point that it has lost its subculture luster and is now more the speak of a generation. Does hip hop in high fashion – like all previous trends that faded in time after their marriage into pop culture – mean that the life cycle of this street trend is nearing its end?

Runway counterpart 2
Designer: Sean Combs, aka Diddy,
BET Rip the Runway Fashion Show March 2008

Can these designs be called more authentically hip hop in this age? Perhaps, perhaps not. In either case, the designs as seen in all three of these images, are still what the hip hop lifestyle represents, particularly as seen on the male model.



New Trend 1 –

Tattoo Art Culture Meets Fashion Design

Ed Hardy, 2009


Ed Hardy is a legendary tattoo artist, whose Japanese-style tattoo designs were purchased by Ku USA, Inc. in 2002, to spark a new clothing line. This is an elite street trend, meaning that it trickled down from the select few, who some might consider trendsetters, and the clothing line was released in various design epicenters throughout the world, such as Miami, Los Angeles, Waikiki, Bahrain, Dubai, Paris, Berlin, and Tokyo. I call this a street trend, not so much based on the clothing line, but based on the original artist, whose authentic ink work can be seen on display on individuals, in art galleries and museums, and in print. The body art culture all know his name as he is considered a pioneer of tattoo as art, particularly with his magazine, co-authored with his wife, Tattootimes. Today, tattoos are a regular part of pop-culture, but authentic tattoo art belongs to a particular subculture, who all respect it as a true form of art.

On the Runway 1

Designer: Ed Hardy, Mercedes Benz Fashion Show,
Miami Spring-Summer 2009

On the Runway 2

Designer: Ed Hardy, LA Fashion Week Fall 2007

It all began with t-shirts, and now Ed Hardy creations are seen on anything from swimsuits, jackets, hats, pants, shoes, and even sunglasses. I don’t suppose I will be too surprised if the clothing line links up with Victoria’s Secret, to find young girls, once again, wearing their pants, this time, to reveal their Hardy-printed designs below. It would mean a re-vamping of the low-cut, ultra-low-cut jean trend that was prevalent earlier this decade.

New Trend 2 – Lego-inspired Belts and Accessories

Dee & Ricky, 2008-2009

Dee & Ricky Jackson are identical twin youths from New York, barely old enough to play in the halls of Las Vegas, who stumbled into fame by chance, personality, and creative innovation. Their product? Lego-inspired belts and accessories that impressed high fashion designer, Marc Jacobs so much, that he gave them about a week’s time to produce enough work to present in his Spring-Summer 2008 fashion show. The two met a friend of Marc Jacobs at a party in the Hamptons, and he was instantly impressed with their design innovation. Their designs were an instant success, selling out in fashion outposts in both New York and Paris. Experiencing their childhood in the Playstation, rollerblading age, these twins seem to ooze with creative vibes. At such a young age, the creative world is already seeming to bend at their will. Their longevity and mark is years to be seen, but they are definitely a pair that is gaining popular notice and seem to carry fortuity under their Lego-adorned hats.


On the Runway 1

Designers: Dee & Ricky for Marc by Marc Jacobs Fashion Show
Spring 2008

On the Runway 2

Designers: Dee & Ricky for Marc by Marc Jacobs, NYC Fall 2007

So far, the twins’ work have appeared on one fashion runway, that of Marc Jacobs. All of these are as seen in either the Fall 2007 or Spring-Summer 2008 shows. Whether you love it or simply don't get it, Dee & Ricky's Lego accessories have assembled their way well into the runway and celebrity scene.