19 April 2009

Historical Artistic Styles Meets 21st Century Couture Fashion

Although some historical styles of dress are reintroduced into succeeding fashion trends more so than others, current fashion trends cannot help but to be connected with those of the past. Past styles are often reinvented, and past silhouettes are revisited, and I find it remarkable to see visual evidence of this, especially when in the hands of fashion design genius.


John Galliano, chief designer for the Christian Dior Fashion house, never ceases to amaze with his designs and theme-based runway collections and shows. Here are some examples of his work that represent a few of the historical artistic periods.

Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Spring 2009 Couture Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Renaissance Period
The Renaissance, or “rebirth,” was a cultural movement that began in Italy and spanned from the 1400s to the 1600s. Early Renaissance period fashion was still influenced by its Gothic era predecessor, though there were some marked changes. For example, women’s clothing switched to more naturally flowing silhouettes with no trains. Gowns were cut to reveal the woman’s full neck and shoulder line, and the signature silhouette of the times was molded by the cone-shaped corset. The late part of the Renaissance period fashion shifted away from the free-flowing skirts to voluminous, heavily pleated skirts supported by hoops, known as “the farthingale.”
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Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Rococo Period
Rococo: This was a period of decadence. Think: Marie Antoinette in all her glorious, lavish fashions. The Rococo Period occurred during the reign of King Louis XV, during the 1700s, and faded towards the end of the century, during the Queen of France - Marie Antoinette - and King Louis XVI’s reign. The Rococo style of fashion belonged to Madame de Pompadour, mistress to King Louis XV, and Marie Antoinette took the style to even more lavish heights during her reign as Queen.
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Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Spring 2009 Couture Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Romantic Period
The Romantic Period was well established during the early-mid 1800s. Women’s wore gowns shaped by stays – or corsets – with slim waists and bust line-accentuating silhouettes. Fuller, wider skirts worn with bustle pads, V necklines, and large sleeves and collars defined women’s fashion of this era. This was also the period when women never left home without their bonnets.

Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Romantic Period
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Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
1870s & Impressionism
This and the following image are two examples from John Galliano that show influence from 1870s & Impressionism. Women’s fashion of this period was marked by “the Bustle,” draped fabric bundled at the lower back waistline, in various widths and flair, and flowing to the ground at varying lengths. Other than the bustle, the silhouette for women’s clothing was fitted, and the sleeves and neckline showed a range in style and cut, depending on the occasion.

Designer: John Galliano for Christian Dior Fashion House, Autumn-Winter 2007-2008 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
1870s & Impressionism
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Designer: Guillermo Mariotto, February 2009
Historical Artistic Reference:
Conceptual Art
A main point of Conceptual Art, a movement during 20th century postmodern times, lies in its statements about life – both political and social. This design is a perfect example from Mariotto representing just that. It is a piece that combines art, fashion, and politics, and it was designed to show at the Roman Fashion House, with the word, "Change," written across the bottom. Here is a quote in reference to the event:

“The president himself took centre stage on Guillermo Mariotto’s design, using the ecologically developed Ingeo fibre, for the Gattinoni fashion house. Mariotto called the garment ‘a kaftan manifesto’ inspired by the ‘silent and peaceful revolution’ that Obama inspires (The Roman Forum).”
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Gareth Pugh is an innovative, wildly creative British designer, who never ceases to amaze with his creations. His design signature: “The exaggerated shoulder; the nipped waist; the articulated limbs, elbows, and shoulders (Style.com).”


Designer: Gareth Pugh, Spring 2009 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Baroque Period

Fashion during the Baroque Period of the 17th century was marked by extravagance, with high waistlines and huge accordion-like collars and cuffs, in a word – “Volume.” (Mod 10)
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Designer: Gareth Pugh, Spring 2007 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Abstract Art
A key ingredient to Abstract Art, a 20th century modern art movement, was a reliance on bold geometric shapes and patterns, and the fashion silhouette of this era was labled as simple.
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Designer: Gareth Pugh, Spring 2008 Collection
Historical Artistic Reference:
Surrealism

Surrealism, an art movement during the early 20th century, is often misunderstood. Anything can be considered Surrealist art, as long as it achieves a surreal composition by placing “unrelated objects or symbols in the same visual context and let the subconscious mind of the viewer fabricate a meaning.” Fashion designers, whose creations reveal unusual combinations and concepts, fit into this genre of art. Many of Garth Pugh’s designs may just be the epitome of bizarre, and thus, it can be considered as Surrealist art.

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