QuoleenaJS's Source Book: The Corset: An Evolution

The corset is derived from the French word, “corps,” which means, body. It has undergone changes in structure and materials throughout its existence, but its main function – altering the shape of the female torso – has remained the same. Some sources have its origins in the 1500s, while others say that its history began as early as the Neolithic era – the Stone Age - in drawings that “show women wearing corset like garments made from animal hides laced down the front (www.corsets4u.co.uk).”

Aside from this archeological finding, the corset was not originally a separate garment. Gowns were designed with lacing, to draw the fabric closer to the body, or the undergarment itself was stiffened at the torso. In the 16th century, the corset evolved into a single piece that has endured throughout the centuries.

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- 1500s: -

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The function of the 16th century corset was to simultaneously flatten and lift the bust line, while transforming the torso into a cylindrical shape. Materials such as leather, buckram, and whalebone were used to stiffen the garment. The corset was also seen as a fashionable piece, and gowns were often designed so that the corset could be seen.

16th Century Silk-Linen German Corset

16th Century English Corset for Queen Elizabeth

16th Century Corset Sketch

16th Century Corset Reproduction

Designer: Drea Leed, c 1999

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- 1600s: -

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During the 17th century, the corset materials expanded to include wood, ivory, and metal, along with the whalebone option. This part of the corset, known as the busk, was a separate piece, and it was not uncommon for a man of the time to carve or give one to his love as a gift.

17th Century Corset Sketch 1

17th Century Corset Sketch 2

17th Century Wooden Corset

17th Century Corset

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- 1700s: -

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The 18th century corset saw the inclusion of shoulder straps, and a longer length. Whalebone was the main support, and the corset of this era had an extremely rigid fit. The 18th century corset was called a stay, or stays, depending on if it was a one-piece construction, or two halves.

18th Century Corset

18th Century Corset

18th Century Corset Sketch

18th Century Corset Reproduction
Designer: BjarneDrews, c 2004

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- 1800s: -

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Early 19th century corsets were also called stays, until shift in its design, after the 1840s. The new corset no longer flattened the breasts and compressed the torso, but served to provide support and to slim the waist. The 1800s was also, perhaps, the first point in history when the corseted silhouette allowed a separation of the breasts.

Corset-1860

Planche XII Corset

Leoty 1867cut

White Sateen Corset

Designer: S&S, c 1875

Corset-1891

Wedding Corset 1898

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- 1900s-now: -

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From the Edwardian silhouette to today’s fashion, the corset has seen some changes in its construction materials and purpose. From its inception, it went from being a necessary staple of women’s fashion, to only being worn as a novelty piece, or for special occasions, such as weddings. This change in function can be traced back to the 30s and the ideals of the flapper.

Mae West was the early 20th century poster girl for the corset, specifically the Spirella brand corset.